Monday, November 16, 2009

Singapore, Day 2

Marginally delayed (as usual), here is the account of Day 2 in Singapore. On the agenda:
  • Singapore Botanic Gardens
  • IT Malls
  • SAM - Singapore Art Museum
  • Beer (duh)
  • Iggy's

First, the Gardens


Check it out at http://www.sbg.org.sg/

I was and still am very, very impressed with the botanic gardens.  The grounds are urban, in that the area is only a few minutes drive from the central business district, has connecting bus routes, and will soon have a subway station.  I arrived at the gardens around 7 AM, after waking up early (thank you, jet-lag) and then realizing that the gardens opened at 5 in the morning.  For reference, sunrise was probably around 6:45 AM, and the temperature was in the mid-80s, rising to the mid-90s by 11 AM.

What most impressed me was how much the gardens are used by people living in Singapore.  Entrance is free (with the exception of the Orchid Gardens), and there were hundreds of people out and about, running, walking their dogs, and particularly doing tai chi in groups of 1 or 2 up to 100.

The gardens are broken into several sections, including Swan Lake, the Ginger Garden, an urban rain forest, Palm Valley and Symphony Lake, and the spectacular National Orchid Garden.  Symphony Lake has a band stage in the middle of the lake, where the symphony presumably plays open air concerts.  Seating is on a grass hillside (Palm Valley).

The Ginger Garden is just what it sounds like...a garden of different ginger varieties.  Ginger is not a particularly spectacular plant, but it is obviously very important in Asian cuisine and to the regional economy.  Swan Lake has (you guessed it!) swans, both of the live and sculptural varieties.  The rain forest was where I started, and was really nice.  There are a few boardwalks wandering across a heavily wooded hillside, with some incredible trees...some with trunks 7 or 8 feet across.

I should set aside a special paragraph for the National Orchid Garden (NOG).  While I always knew that some people go nuts over orchids, breeding plants that might take a decade to produce a flower, I never really understood the obsession.  Having visiting the Singapore orchids, I get it now.  The NOG is about seven acres of orchids, bromeliads, and related plants.  I saw (no joke) thousands of different orchid varieties, some with flowers half the size of a fingernail, some with flowers bigger than my hand.



Ok, enough about the flowers!

So.  After a coffee and pastry in the gardens, I headed back to the hotel to cool off, and then popped out at noon to see the Central Business District (the CBD).  Sidebar: Singapore is obsessed with acronyms.  There is the CBD, the MRT (mass rapid transit), the SBG (see above), the CTE, PIE, and ERP (I don't know...something about roads).  So, I took the subway (MRT) on down there.  First stop: lunch.  I stopped into Ah Teng's Bakery, which is in the famous Raffles Hotel.


Lunch, and yes that is a coffee in the background.  Apparently coffee or tea is appropriate for lunch in Singapore.


Once that delightful sandwich was gone, I departed on a post-prandial tour, checking out two of the IT malls.  That's right...this is a city obsessed with shopping to an extreme.  There are many many malls in the city, including several (more than the two that I visited) that specialize strictly in electronics.  And I'm not talking about some wimpy American mall with 50,000 square feet of retail.  Both of these malls took up an entire city block, went up seven or eight stories, down one or two, and sold everything from cameras to laptops to chips to LEDs to specific cooling fans for a 1995 HP desktop that you can't even find online.  How happy was I?

Wanna know the weirdest thing about these two places?  In addition to all of the electronic goodies, they each had several sporting goods stores.  Because when I think of IT weenies, my mind immediately goes to athletics.

On to the afternoon!


One more stop before a quick run back to my hotel (I said I was tired!): the Singapore Art Museum.  The museum itself was quite interesting, as it is a converted colonial mansion.  There are open breezeways all the way around the building, which have been glassed in to protect the art.  The museum focuses on Singapore native artists, as well as regional artists from Malaysia, Thailand, China, etc.  No pictures inside, of course, but to the right is one of several sculptures in the museum courtyard...a wise man leaping over the mountain. 

On the plus side, I got in to the museum for free, but on the minus, the whole first floor was closed off to change out the exhibits.  Oh well...I leave you with the Buddha riding a dragon, with the museum building itself in the background.


My final activity of the day, after another visit to the hotel (I was still tired and sweaty), was to visit the waterfront and esplanade. They have built a large concert hall along with a long park, stretching many miles along the bay and coast.  The design of the hall was apparently inspired by fly eyes and durians...two things which I find particularly uninspiring.  Looking towards the hall:


And the other way, across the bay:


How crazy is that?  If I was in heavy construction, I would sure want to be in Asia.

It's been quite a day so far, but I'm not done yet.  Before the day was through, I found one of two brewpubs in Singapore and I had a late reservation at Iggy's restaurant, both of which I will save for another post.  The teaser is that Iggy's is on several "Top 50" lists for worlds best restaurants, and ranks #1 or #2 in Asia, depending on who you ask.  Yum!

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