Recipe - Fresh Pasta

As promised from the Pre-Father's Day post:

Fresh pasta is extremely easy to make, is a specialty of mine, and is delicious with any sauce. (Next posting will be sauce options.) I'm obviously biased, but I think that this pasta formula make a noodle superior to any fresh pasta that I've ever bought (with apologies to Lazzaroli's). You can mix by hand, but it is much easier if you have a KitchenAid or similar stand mixer. I have heard of people using a Cuisinart for this, but I've never tried it.

The process below reads as being very long and complex, but it really isn't...I'm just detail oriented when it comes to food. Try making fresh pasta some weekend when you have an hour or two to play around. Worst case, you have to cook a box of dried pasta for dinner instead.

Ingredients

Makes pasta for 4 generous servings

2-1/4 cups fine durum semolina flour (buy in bulk at Whole Foods or similar store)
4 large eggs
1 tablespoon olive oil
salt (1/2 teaspoon? I just give the grinder a few twists)
All-purpose flour as needed

Start by mixing all ingredients except for the all-purpose flour in the bowl of the mixer, using the paddle attachment. The dough will be very sticky and wet. Add the A-P flour by tablespoons while mixing, until the dough comes together and becomes very slightly tacky, but not sticky. Switch to the dough hook and knead for a few minutes. (The dough will get stickier as you knead it, because the flour continues hydrating. You may need to add more flour by pinches.)

To mix by hand, form a well in your flour for the eggs and slowly mix in with a fork until the dough forms. Continue adding flour until the right consistency is reached, then knead by hand for several minutes.

Cover the bowl with a towel and let the dough rest for at least 30 minutes (wrap it in plastic or put in a big ziploc bag overnight in the fridge for silky smooth noodles). Knead the dough by hand for a minute and then separate into 6 pieces. Let the dough rest again for a few minutes.

Next, flatten your dough balls with a rolling pin and then run through a pasta roller until you reach the desired thickness. Remember that the pasta thickens and expands when you cook it. Lay the sheets out on a flat surface to dry slightly (just a few minutes). Cut your noodles, either with the machine for spaghetti or linguine, or by hand for tagliatelle. Cut the sheets to length if they are for lasagna or ravioli. If you are not cooking them immediately, cover with a towel and let dry. If you plan to store your noodles, form them into "nests" before they get dry, let them dry for an hour or two, and then freeze in a sealed container (Tupperware, etc.).

Finally, to cook, plunge the pasta into salted water at a rolling boil. Stir gently to ensure that the nests separate. Very fresh noodles will cook in just a minute or two, and dried fresh pasta will take 5-6 minutes. As always, feel the noodles and taste when you are getting close. Either pour into a strainer or extract the noodles with a pasta serving fork if you are cooking in a few batches (which I do).

By the way: I will never forgive you if you rinse your pasta in cold water...you are literally washing away all the flavor. If you plan to leave the noodles without saucing immediately, just toss them with a tablespoon of olive oil while still hot to keep them from sticking together.

Sauce (or not), eat, and enjoy!

Notes:

I had a lot of trouble with pasta recipes in books until I developed this formula. The main problem was that most cookbooks don't want to spend much time explaining texture, moisture, etc., because most people won't even try to make pasta, and almost nobody will spend the time to understand the full process.

The first doughs I made either didn't hold together or were so wet and sticky that you couldn't work with it. This recipe will allow you to get a sheet of pasta that is paper thin if you want...one that you can literally see through. I've also tried to address the moisture issue; to get perfect noodles you do have to feel your way through the dough. Too dry and they won't hold together correctly. Too damp and you either can't roll them out, or you can roll them but then they form a big sticky clump after you cut them. Starting out you should err on the dry side, once your initial dough ball has formed, and you will do fine.

• You can roll out with a rolling pin if you don't have a machine, but it is a LOT of work. You are better off hand rolling thick noodles, like bucatini or pici.
• The amount of added flour that you need varies by a number of things, but is mostly dependent on how big your eggs are, the flour you buy (density, moisture level, etc.) and how humid it is. You will get the feel for the right dough after making it once or twice.
• Substitute 1/2 to 3/4 cup of the semolina with whole wheat flour for a nutty, grainier noodle. Alternatively, substitute the same or more with all-purpose flour for a silkier, creamier noodle.
• If the dough is not cooperating, just cover with a towel and let it rest. Come back in 30 minutes. The gluten in the flour has to hydrate and then develop...that is what gives the noodles their structure and substance. If you rush this, your noodles are going to fall apart. This is the same process that traditional bread dough goes through, to give the surface and crumb that solid, glossy texture.

Anyone can make good fresh pasta, easily, if you are willing to try. As always, eat well and enjoy!